"Good afternoon, lovely things you have here."
He was seated down behind the high counter of his cluttered antique store on a side street in Prague. It took a bit of effort at first to determine where the man left off and his collection of artifacts began.
We had been exploring a neighborhood originally devoted to the King's vineyard, now a pleasant meander through parks and residences. And churches, everywhere churches. The city of Prague is well over a thousand years old. Let that sink in. And the church has been a vital part of the culture for at least the last 1100 years.
So yeah, antiques. I was taken in by the collection of military badges on his front counter. Russian and German uniform insignia from WWII told the story of a conflict that had raged over the heads of the Bohemian residents. I toyed with the fantasy that this man's father might have collected all these one by one as the war dragged on. They were in wonderful condition. The next card beside these had the badges of Czech Partizans, freedom fighters. One unit had the Czech Lion rampant next to the Slovak double cross in a shield. Another had the initials C, S, and M for the Czech, Silesian, and Moravian fighters who joined forces to protect their homelands. I looked for but did not see a unit I was especially interested in. The badge of the Hussite Partizans featured a gold star surmounted by a red chalice. I didn't find one there, and was a little disappointed.
In the early 1400s Jan Hus was rector at Charles University in Prague. He was also preaching in the congregation of Bethlehem Chapel. At that time commonly church was conducted in Latin, the priest was of course rightly revered, and Holy Communion was conducted in such a way that the lay parishioners only ever received the bread, the cup being reserved for the priest. Theology maintained that Christ was fully present in the host or bread, so there was no need to share in the cup. Whatever the reasons for this, it served to preserve a proper respect for the priest, who was of course closer to God.
Hus and the Praguers were teaching a different way. They were preaching the Bible in the Bohemian vernacular language so that people could understand it for themselves. They were emphasizing the priesthood of all believers, the unity of the brethren. And they were offering Holy Communion in both kinds, both host and cup, to all believers.
In 1415 Hus was invited to the ecumenical Council of Constance to explain his views. Emperor Sigismund even offered him safe passage to the Council. And in truth he came safely to Constance. But once there, he found the bishops had already gone over his writings. He had scant opportunity to present his views, was imprisoned, condemned as a heretic, and burned at the stake. A somewhat annoyed Sigismund was mollified by the bishops; promises made to a heretic could not be considered binding after all.
Followers of Hus took his betrayal personally and the Hussite wars lasted for a hundred years. In the end the Roman Church relented and religious tolerance became briefly the rule of the day.
Through all of this the Kalicha, the chalice of Communion, became a symbol and rallying point.
"Do you have in your store a chalice, a cup, "kalicha?" I asked.
"No nothing like that, I am sorry."
"Because I think maybe the "Kalicha" is important to the Czech church."
"No. Church things I have only here." He pointed out a selection of crucifixes. There were also brilliantly painted icons. There were some old menorahs. Many things were left behind during waves of religious persecution, first under Berlin and then under Moscow. Since the Velvet Revolution in 1989 both churches and synagogues are coming back to life.
He proudly showed us pictures of his son in America. The son held advanced degrees in the law and was doing very well. The gentleman himself claimed to speak ten languages, and
I don't doubt it was true. The Bohemian lands border on Germany, Poland, Hungary, and Slovakia. Russia and Ukraine are not far away. Especially since 1990 tourists arrive from the Far East and West.
It had been an enjoyable few minutes making conversation, but we thanked our gentleman and turned to leave. Then as I reached for the door I saw it.
There on a shelf waist high was an earthenware chalice. Simple in form, unremarkable in glazing, it looked like it might have been in daily use for decades. It had no markings. It had no price tag. When I picked it up a ring of keys clattered inside. The man collected his keys from me and said, "Very low price." It was the place he dumped his house keys while working in the store. He sold it to me with pleasure, but I am sure he still wonders at the crazy American who bought his key jar.
It is possible I am making too much of this chalice iconography. It is certainly true that most Czechs do not imbue this symbol with the combination of suffering and hope and courage I read in the Czech Soul. But I saw them everywhere in Prague. A chalice adorns a church banner, not a Communion banner with the round host suspended over the chalice, but a solitary chalice. A stylized chalice figures in the logo for the Czech Hussite Church brochure. A famous old restaurant near the Dvorak Museum bears the name U Kalicha. And during the Hussite wars the great Czech General Zizka, who never lost a battle, captured a remote fortress estate and christens the place "the Chalice."